11.d 7 to 20 April – Together with Elina

Initially we were thinking to look for walks in the mountains ranges nearby Gifu and up north, but given the weather conditions (still much snow on summits) and following advice from local friends, we switched to more coastal path with famous Kumano Kodō pilgrimage routes (FYI: twinned with Camino de Santiago!). This is located in the Kii Peninsula, south of Osaka.

We only spent 3 days there, covering the section from Kumano Hongū Taisha(*) to Kumano Nachi Taisha(*).

(*) taisha: There are various terms used in conjunction with Japanese shrines (神社, jinja), such as taisha (大社) and jingū (神宮). The term taisha was originally a way of referring to a particular shrine in Shimane Prefecture, later (before the Second World War) this shrine title was given to places of Shinto worship nationwide and refer to places with a particular historical background. Shrines that harbour a deep rooted connection with royalty are called jingū in Japanese.


Kumano Kodō / “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.”

We did the end bit of the red one… 🙂

Declared as UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004 under the name “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.”, Kumano Kodō is in fact several pilgrimage routes, we only chose one and even from that one, just a tiny bit…

A few notes about these pilgrimage routes: These routes became famous as the aristocracy and even emperors undertook these pilgrimage and as it is linked to Kumano faith. During the 11th to 13th centuries pilgrimages to Kumano by the Imperial family were repeated almost 100 times. When imperial court undertook this pilgrimage from Kyoto, it would take them 30-40 days… it became such famous pilgrimage that up to ~600 people would form a caravane along with the imperial pilgrimage! The Kumano faith was unique in Japan because it was open to everyone regardless of class, etc.

Shingu city

But first a train from Gifu to Shingu, via Nagoya. A good time to catchup on emails!
When ECHA staff hear the sound site, even if spelled as in sightseeing, they look for a chemical plant site…
(job conditioning)
Shingu (Tankaku) Castle Ruins’ site offers a great overlooking panoramic view around the town and beyond!
… to Kamikura-Jinja Shrine
That shrine provides another great view over the city and Pacific Ocean…
Arriving at Shingu, too late to join the Kumano Kodō, so we did a bit of sightseeing….
Not just Sakura blooming, but already getting a bit of green too…
Good climb to …
Image from https://www.shinguu.jp/en/spots/detail/A0002
A place to visit on 6 Feb… it would seem!
Nothing special… just crossing the railways in the evening light…
Panorama from top of Shingu (Tankaku) Castle Ruins

Yunomine Onsen

Next day we took a bus to get to the starting point of our own little version of pilgrimage… but we also too a day to visit around and enjoy the natural Onsen water – no need rushing! The weather was wet anyway!!

Trekking in forest under an umbrella … just to be stylish!
Until we reached Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine… another tick ✅
At a small tea house… no one in, maybe self service?!
Through a Sugi forest
Brief shelter at a mountain shrine.
Not sure how to comment this….
The important Kumano Hongu Taisha temple used to be on this sandbank of Kumano river… until a major flood encourage its relocation on dryer grounds!
Many sightings of land slides all around Japan, they must have become experts on how to consolidate slopes, or at least fix the damage!
Yunomine Onsen, a small town with natural hot water springs
And it seems to work well!!
Wilde cherry trees sticking out from forest.
Shirodamo (Neolitsea sericea)
Authentic deco in our logging.
Bee hives, for wild bees…

Little trouble to get to our starting point… but no shame in U-turning with public transport… just need to be and stay zen!

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