9.b 25 to 30 March – Tour with Mimiko

In Hagi-Shi

We had a good day visiting Hagi, a town that preserved its historical atmosphere of early Meiji period. Streets and houses just like we were in a Samurai movie – just need to look at it with a B&W filter. But of course what has been preserved are the more luxurious properties, ex-samurai that were successful in converting to merchants!

We took full advantage of the opportunity to have a tour guide with us !!

most windows are covered with beautiful aged sugi fence
but as merchant house they did have lots of storage space in warehouses like rooms.
kitchen, and I am sure they managed to cook for a big reception!
several streets preserved as open air museum
Some merchant houses can be visited, like the most famous one: Kikuya House
… there did not seem to be much space to store belongings (very little furniture) – either it has been removed or people had far less belongings, maybe a mix of both!!
still impressed with the sliding doors, wood material and fine paper & wood panels. Was likely nice living there in summer and inter-seasons… but not so much fun in winter! Gla gla gla.

Hagi region is famous for its pottery and natsumikan (a type of summer mandarin, which is ripe in winter 🙂 ). We were not so fond of the ceramics, a bit too coarse to our liking… probably truly the best for tea ceremony, but not our cup of tea – sorry, could not resist! Natsumikan on the other hand were quite to our liking…. there were many in the old town area. It appears that when samurai had to find a new occupation and source of income many around Hagi started culture of these natsumikan.

Surprised to see walls made of “torchis” (wattle and daub)

Hagi also played and important role in the Meiji restoration and industrial revolution with renowned figures, as Yoshida Shoin and Takasugi Shinsaku, but also many others, Takamasa Obata, the Chōshū was Five (esp. Itō Hirobumi) ….

Yoshida Shoin (1830 – 1859): From a family of samurai he showed a real open mind, wanted to go around the world but got caught and assigned to residence… he still was allowed to teach and his school was open to anyone, no distinction of rank. In a way he planted the seeds to the industrial revolution… ( we visited his “open school“)

Takasugi Shinsaku (1839 – 1867): One of Shoin’s pupils, he became a core figure in the anti-Shogunate. (we visited his birth place)

Hagi is like an island, at a delta between 2 rivers and the sea. We also used some rented bikes to visit the vast historical area… Mimiko was very brave and daring, as she had not been on a bike for some ~40 years!

Post office are good landmarks…
We finally managed to catch up on the sakura (cherry blossom)… so far we had always been 2-5 too early, and then moving north…
At Shoin’s parc

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